Thursday, July 16, 2009

The City of Gold

Arrived in Johannesburg this morning (Joburg or Jozi to the locals). Really has the feel of NYC but with the sprawling layout of LA (which David had told us before). Its a rough city but we both really love the feel of it. The neighborhood that we are staying in is more integrated then any place we've seen in South Africa so far, which is so refreshing. Still not very mixed by another nations standards, but any integration at all feels like water to a parched throat. We were walking around our town when we got recognized on the street by someone who had seen us in Cape Town. A remarkable experience, being recognized in a city we have never been in, in a country we were strangers to but three weeks ago.

Yesteday, we stayed at the farm of David's neice, Marium Botha, a couple hours south of Johannesburg in the Free State. It was a huge industrial corn farm (corn is called "mealie" here). The farm was in the middle of harvesting the year's crop and we got to swim in huge trucks of corn kernals ("mealie pips", it felt like the ball pit at Chuck E Cheezes) and each of us got to try driving a huge industrial harvester down the rows of mealie stalks (a remarkably empowering experience).

We got to have dinner with Marium's father in law, Andre Botha, who recently finished a term as a member of the national parliament. Marium's mother-in-law has just started serving as the South African ambassador in Prague and Mr. Botha was leaving to join her later this week. Amazing to get to hear stories of the government from the inside, which I shall try to put down later. What a strangely powerful and influential family David has. Marium is an activist lawyer working to improve housing for the poor majority, but even with this noble task occupying all her time, it still feels strange and somehow immoral to sit in a house of such incredible wealth while so many here suffer in the cold (the family lives in a glorious mansion on the land that 7 generations of Bothas have farmed, with black staff doing much of the menial tasks). Petty moralizing is easy to do in South Africa but it is inarguably a country of the most severe inequities, such that I don't even know how to adequately describe it.

Tomorrow we perform at the Market! We are very excited....

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

More quick posts.... we are in the captial of Lesotho right now, stopping for a night on our way to Johannesburg. Here's a quick run down of our past week:

July 9-11: Grahamstown festival. We saw tons of amazing, amazing shows. Very inspiring. One show was more of an installation, called "Blood Diamonds"; we were walked through the old train station that still divides white Grahamstown from the black town ship, seeing different living exhibits, led by a small black child from the township. Very moving. Saw a nice combination of white and black performers, which was a nice break from the exhausting segregation of the country. Still, most of the shows had white directors, even if the entire cast was black.

July 12: Woke up to find all of Grahamstown had no running water. Still don't know what happened there. David then took us on our three or four day journey to Johannesburg. We stay the night in the historic town of Graff Reinet in a nice little B&B. We go to a game park and see all sorts of critters. In between Grahamstown and Graff Reinet we see just along the road a couple dozen monkeys and a family of baboons. Amazing! David takes us up to The Valley of Desolation, which is advertised as being a place of "spiritual oneness" which seemed suspicious to us, but it was actually incredibly moving. It was a canyon of stone spires overlooking a vast, vast vista. Incredibly beautiful.

July 13: In the morning we drive into the Karoo (the semi-arid desert) on our way to the ranch of a friend of David's. The Karoo is amazing, full of seusian plants and amazing koppies (mesas). David's family at the ranch were lovely and we had a grand time. They took us on a walk up some crags where we could look down on a black eagles nest and see the egg inside of it. The black eagles there were huge, wingspans over 2 meters. The distrubing racial segregation the country permiates throughout, so even this lovely, church going family lived in relative sumptuousness with their whiteness, while they were only just putting in electrical wires for their workers and their families (about 13 black people all together). To their great credit, the workers had already had electrical lights and they were installing the wires out of their own pockets but there had been workers houses their for 50 years of their family history already and only now were these improvements being implemented. It was actually a pretty dicey time for them to be getting into farming at all, as threats of land redistribution are frequent and some white farmers have even been killed by uprising farm hands. The mother of the family had her brother just killed in such a way but it seems it might have been for personal reasons. It all just goes to reinforce how insane this country is. My goodness.

July 14: We wake at the ranch and get on the road for Lesotho. We have an extra couple of nights on our way to Johannesburg so we decide to stay a night in Maseru, the capital of Lesotho, for the night. On the way we had a particularly disturbing experience when we stopped in the small rural town of Stynesburg for pees and refreshments. Stynesburg (pronounced "Stainsburg") was a small rundown town, with a wide township surrounding it. The shabby convenience store that we stopped at was surrounded by the black residents of the town and everyone we saw was black except for three people: the manager of the store and his stoogie and the light skinned colored woman who ran the cashregister. This is the regular situation throughout ZA but something about it felt even more sinister here. Abigail used the bathroom across the street and when she came back she was stopped by a black child, maybe 8 or 9 years old with trails of snot down out his nose. The boy came up very close to her and raised a gun to her, pulled the trigger and only then did we discover it was a toy. We found out from David the snot was from the child sniffing glue. He was definately not well. He came up and repeated the same thing to be and I gave him a copper (20 cents or so), which felt like a strange thing to do, too. That's the thing about this country, there is just nothing that you can do on a day to day level. It just leaves you feeling so utterly defeated sometimes.

Entering Lesotho was amazing as it immediately felt like a different country despite its being surrounded entirely by South Africa. It feels more properly what I would suspect an African nation to feel like, with much less apparent European influence or people of European descent. We've checked into a hotel and will do a short driving tour of The Mountain Kingdom tomorrow. Lesotho is a place of deep poverty and sickening HIV+ rates, but it didn't suffer apartheid and feels to me to have maintained some sort of dignity because of it. I'm very curious to see what little we can tomorrow.

People are talking up a storm about our Johannesburg shows so it sounds like we'll have good crowds. Very excited about it! David is talking seriously about how to bring us back later this year for a longer period to create an entirely new piece of theater, which we are incredibly excited about. Lets keep our fingers crossed... regardless, we both really want to get to know this country on a more permanent level.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Quick rundown of our days....:

Day 1-3, June 25-27 – Arrived in Cape Town. Immediately greeted by Table Mountain overlooking the airport, which is a very stunning sight. The airport is surrounded by the vast shanty townships of cape town, composed almost entirely of rickety handmade shacks, and it is this unbelievable poverty that greets anyone who flies into Cape Town. Met a great deal of David's family (there are tons of them) over the next few days then I (Shaun) got quite sick.

Day 3 - Sunday the 28th - Jo (David's niece, amazing woman) took us to Guguleto (a cape town township) to see a church service done in about 80% Xhosa. afterwards we went to the shack home of one of her friends who lives in Khayalicha. I'll write more about this experience later, as it was a very important one.

Day 4-6, June 29-July 1– We explore Cape Town with David (a place of unimaginable beauty) on the 29 but I feel physically wretched and by the following day we both are both sick with miserable colds. We lie in bed for two days recovering. I read #1 Woman's Detective Agency, which was lying around David's house and I thoroughly enjoyed it (this fact is important to remember for later).

Day 7-9, July 2-4 – We do three gigs at three different venues in Cape Town on thur/fri/sat, all of which go over very well and were very warmly received. On saturday, David's friend Mitch Besser, a doctor who has started a very effective and successful anti-AIDS NGO called Mothers 2 Mothers 2 Be, saw our show at the Obz Cafe and really liked us. Thus he invited us to go the very next morning to a special summit that he was presenting at. The event, which was at a orphanage for AIDS orphans in Khayalicha, was a summit of the Academy of Achievement (or something) which as far as I can tell is an organization for rich graduate and doctoral students interested in social change. What was nuts is the incredible number of celebrities there. Among those we met or at least stood close to: Vince Gil, Amy Grant, Nadine Gordimer (Nobel Laureate, author of July's Children), Chris Matthews, Sam Donaldson, Jeremy Irons, Barbara Holden (Minister in the government and extremely important figure from the Anti-Apartheid, released from jail at the same time as Mandela), and I got to have a lovely little chat with Alexander McColl Smith, the author of (yes) #1 Woman's Detective Agency that I had just read a few days earlier. The nuttiest thing was that after the summit, everyone was bussed out of the incredible poverty of Khayalicha and housed in the fanciest hotel in Cape Town, literally one of the most expensive and fanciest in the world.

Day 10, July 5 – We drive 3 hours NE of Cape Town to where David's son Alex lives with his wife and twin 10 month old girls on the top of a huge mountain in the middle of a state forest. The vistas off the mountain were unbelievable and David's grand daughters were the sweetest imaginable. Oh yes, and this was also my first trip driving on the left side of the road! We rented a car so we could come back to CT early and david could stay an extra day.

Day 11, July 6 – We drive down off the mountain in the morning (down insane switch backs that stretch off into hundreds of feet of nothingness) and rush home so we can meet Bongani. Bongani is a musician/composer/choir director who is the music director of the church that we went to in Guguleto, who had agreed to spend the day with us and take us to the rehearsals of his youth band and youth choir, as well as give us a tour of some of the town ships. Much more on this later, but the music was unbelievable. Just incredible. Both band and choir sing songs that Bongani composed, largely about social issues. His youth band, called Siyaya, is made up entirely of teenagers from the townships, sings songs about HIV/AIDS (“Masturbation is the safest form of sex, sister, come on”!) and has toured the US several times. We got to sing for them and they did a special 40 minute performance for us. Wow! His choir was undoubtedly the best community choir I've ever heard. His choir and band survive off of partnerships with foreign organizations, largely from the US, and he has asked us to help him find more sponsors to help keep these incredible groups going.

Day 12 - July 7 – We hike in the mountains directly behind our home with Nick, a fabulous Kalk Bay artist. We leave at 6:30am and watch the sun rise as we climb the hills. Incredible, incredible beauty. And since this is fynbos country, I recognize maybe 5% of the plants. Nick is a great naturalist (it features very prominently in his work, which I will describe later) so he proved an excellent guide, describing the various plants and flowers. Our hike took us to several peaks from which we could see for miles. Stunning! Then in the evening we were getting ready to eat super when we got a call from Dan Eppel, David's nephew, who is a fabulous musician, producer and audio engineer. It turns out that he had been asked to record a pitch for Shoprite's TV & radio ads and he asked if we would help him record it. We went on to spend the night singing the old R&B tune “Shout”, which has a good chance of being everywhere in ZA for the next two months. Weird!

Day 13, July 8 – Today we are sleeping in this amazing B&B in a little costal town on our way to Grahamstown. We walked along the Indian ocean as the sun set and the water here is perhaps the most beautiful I've ever seen, a blue bordering on purple.

Alright, more detail later... the internet is not very cooperative here. We miss everyone terribly but we are having such an amazing, amazing time here!

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

The cape environment

We are surrounded by possibly the most austerely beautiful scenes of nature that either of us has ever seen. I am sitting right now typing at David's desk on the second floor of our house in Kalk Bay, looking out his balcony at the stunningly green sea (maybe 50 yards away) and surrounded by immense mountains on three sides, with mountains also across false bay, barely visible through the mist. The mountains are like none I have ever seen, craggy tops jutting out for hundreds of feet above their green shirts. Many of the plants of the cape literally exist nowhere else on earth. The Cape Floral Kingdom is the smallest of the world's six floral kingdoms, existing only in south west ZA (compare this with Holarctic Kingdom, which basically encompasses every plant of the northern hemisphere). We've gotten to see all sorts of birds and on Sunday we went down to the pier where fisherman were bringing in their daily haul and got to watch seals playing by the docks waiting for the scraps to be tossed to them. 

David is fond of recollecting that we are here literally at the end of the world, at the very tip of the african continent, with nothing but water between us and Antarctica.  Speaking of water, we are in the unique position of being able to see two oceans within a three minute drive of each other. We stood at the shore of the Atlantic, drove over a hill, and found the Indian Ocean spreading out before us. It is winter here, but Abigail and I have resolved to find a warm day in which we can dip our toes into the Indian Ocean, as it is a sea we have never touched before.

We're going to borrow David's camera and then I promise we will share some pictures... (the Internet is much more of a spotty beast then I was expecting, so our blog updates will be a bit irregular, I'm afraid.)

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Almost one week in...

There are seals here, that leap up for the fish guts the fishermen toss into the bay, and pelicans, and tribes of baboons that will come into your home and raid your kitchen if you're not cautious. There is also music, unbelievable music, mostly vocal, choral, and very rich.
But mostly what i've found here so far (other than immense, breath-taking natural beauty, like something i'd read about in fairytales) is contradictions.

South Africa is working towards racial equality, but one won't find it here yet. There are three distinct tiers of status based on color. Most of the white people live in rich neaighborhoods, they are a minority, but a very visible one. There are mansions here along the cape like something out of the hollywood hills. Gorgeous, unthinkable homes built, like a miracle, standing strangely out of sheer rock faces. 
And there are Woolworths there, and Gucci shops, and restaurants so decadent one blushes walking by.
 
And then... then there is Khailiche. A sprawling, "temporary" settlement that is home to 1,000,000 black people. These are not the townships of Apartheid times, one is legally free to come and go, and many do, indeed they have to go very far to find work. But there is no money here, and very little education. 

not the simplest of internet situations, so da blog will be sporadic this week. We're both sick... ugh. We're being well taken care of though. We're performing tomorrow and looking forward to it... more soon.

- Abigail

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Next stop: South Africa

We're getting everything packed up and making mad dashes around town trying to buy the last of our needed supplies for the trip. We're in Vermont right, having just done a fundraiser in Middlebury, and tomorrow we drive to NYC, then on Tuesday we'll wake up and spend the next two days traveling. Whoo boy! Our flight from Atlanta only makes a brief landing to refuel in Senegal before touching down on Jo'burg's sweet soil. In preparation for the rigors of plane travel, we've come prepared with hordes of audio books, crappy novels, and DVDs that we'll watch as long as our laptop has power.

We've both been doing a lot of ZA reading in prep for the trip which has been really exciting. (FUN FACT: South Africa's abbreviation is ZA: the Z stands for 'Zuid', which is apparently 'south' in Dutch, so ZA = 'Zuid Africa'. This is all because Saudi Arabia had already swiped 'SA'. The bastards!) I've been reading this excellent biography of Thabo Mbeki, written by one of David's friends, Mark Gevisser, called 'A Legacy of Liberation'. Interestingly, that is the USA name, A Legacy of Liberation: Thabo Mbeki and the Future of the South African Dream. In South Africa itself, however, it is called Thabo Mbeki: The Dream Deferred. Interesting, non? We've also been reading a couple of papers, the Sowetan (sowetan.co.za) and The Mail & Guardian (mg.co.za). (Another FUN FACT: Soweto, the black township outside of Johannesburg, is sort of an abbreviation, like Tribeca, and means SOuth WEstern TOwnship. Howboutthat??)


This is a picture of Fish Hoek, the small community outside of Cape Town where our dear director lives. His house is somewhere in that first row of house and from his balcony he can see the whales that regularly swim in the bay. Amazing. Also regularly swimming in these waters are some of the worlds largest populations of great white sharks. So, needless to say, we're not terribly disappointed about it being winter there and not being able to swim. Maybe next time, sharks. David tried to comfort us with a story of a woman who swam these waters every day for 40 years. The comforting part wasn't that she never got eaten, which she did, but that it took 40 years for the sharks to do so. Ah, how relieving, how soothing a story.

With any luck, the next posting we put up will be from Africa! Huzzah!

- Shaun

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

We're going to Botswana!

Whoa, we just found out we're doing a gig in Botswana too... amazing!

and for those who haven't seen it yet:



(courtesy of the fabulous David Storm)